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The traditionalists won the day. And that became part of the story!


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Like in those other regions, the wines come in different shapes and sizes, depending on the terroir of the vineyards and the style of the producer. But in very general terms, the Syrahs of the Northern Rhone are less fruit forward than examples from, say, Australia, California or the Languedoc. This is because, as noted above, the Northern Rhone is a cooler climate region and it is harder to produce ripe fruit. Perhaps because there is less fruit, the Northern Rhones often show more mineral and terroir nuance, and more acidity, than you find in Syrah from elsewhere.

Syrah here does, like elsewhere, show lots of structure, although it is sometimes intentionally produced here in a non-extractive style that is meant to be lighter and more drinkable at a young age a vin de soif. The Northern Rhone also has white wine. Sometimes they are bottled as single varietal wines, sometimes they are blended together though Viognier is rarely blended with the other white grapes , and sometimes they are blended with Syrah.

So this is not like Burgundy where red and white are pretty much equal. As mentioned above, the Northern Rhone has as long a wine history as just about anywhere in Western Europe outside of Southern Italy. Lots has happened!

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As you know from Asterix, the Romans conquered Gaul. Where they could, they planted vineyards. Appearing around 50 A. Even Pliny the Elder mentions the wines! Yep, the Dark Ages really sucked. It was also really hard to sell wine. Local wine production became limited once the Roman Empire collapsed and through the 9 th century the locals just made what they could drink themselves and hide from nearby marauders. The Dark Ages came to a close when the Church, and its network of monks and abbeys, brought order to the Northern Rhone.

I know, your eyes are glazing over! Who cares about ecclesiastical land grabs in 10 th Century France? Wine lovers do! Basically, throughout the history of Europe, nobody has done a better job of maintaining vineyard land than…you guessed it…monks.

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Think about it. You think long term. You also have the benefit of protection. But if that land were held by the Church, that was another story.

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The Vikings did it, because they were pagans which is one of the reasons many great wine regions are a safe miles from the coast , but most Lords and Barons felt that it was better for their souls to simply let the monks do their thing. And in these parts, that was making wine. From about to the late 19 th century, things were pretty good for wine producers in the Northern Rhone.

This is the period when their wines developed an international reputation. More importantly, perhaps, they sent these casks West, to Bordeaux.

Bordeaux was a great port and an important wine center, so from here wine could be exported to England, Russia and America. Some of it, of course, stayed in Bordeaux and was used to strengthen the local wine!

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Note that, like in Burgundy, virtually all the wine produced in this period was sold in casks and handled by merchants negociants. With the exception of a few names in Hermitage, Cote Rotie and Chateau Grillet, it was only after World War II that you start to see bottlings from individual grower-producers. This part of the story could be told of just about every major wine region in Europe.

The s to s were really hard. It started with phylloxera , a disease that wiped out all wine production until it was discovered that you could graft European wine varieties to American rootstocks that are resistant to the disease. After that, producers found it really hard to get the industry back on its feet.

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World Wars and the Great Depression are not good for wine sales. Most locals found it easier to sell off their vineyard land so that someone could build a new gas station or housing development.

Nobody seemed to care about the Northern Rhone any more. But that was in the s, and John Livingstone-Learmonth, with his non-American perspective see the end of this blog post for more on the great JLL , says that the revival began in the s, and that it was actually thanks to his home country of Britain. His version of the story may lack Star Wars-level drama, but it does have the ring of truth. Basically, Bordeaux and Burgundy vintages in the s were for the most part pretty bad. The British wine trade were forced to turn to the Northern Rhone, which had a few good vintages the s, and consumers followed.

JLL backs up this story with impressive figures. But after that, the story that is somewhat familiar to most American lovers definitely played out. Kermit Lynch really did find producers like Chave, Trollat and Verset. Robert Parker really did say nice things about Chave in his widely followed works. The Northern Rhone was back on the map. This is when things get really exciting.

But Golden Ages are never simple. Like JLL says, it seems to have started with awakening interest in the British market.

And then in the s the Americans got in on the act. That was good…until it was bad. Robert Parker got a little carried away awarding high scores to oaky ripe wines, so many Northern Rhoners started making wines in a style that pleased him and his followers. American consumers eventually realized that was no good, and suddenly everyone wanted to drink wines made by the hold-outs who had never abandoned Northern Rhone traditions.

All of this was given an assist by Burgundy, which after the vintage started charging a lot more for their wines. A lot of collectors needed somewhere else to get their elegant wines, and the Northern Rhone beckoned, just on the other side of Lyon. And this is where we stand today. There are a lot of producers making great wine.

A tiny handful of them make elite wines that are very expensive, but plenty others continue to make very high-quality wines that are reasonably priced for what they offer. Global warming threatens to stir things up, but for now it has mostly brought good vintages through may well be remembered as a legendary sequence.

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Things in the Northern Rhone are as Golden as ever! I like to come up with simple models to understand the geography of wine regions. For Burgundy, there is nothing easier to understand than the east-facing slope that runs north to south, with the Grand Cru slopes mid-slope, and the premier crus just above and below. That string is the Rhone River, running north to south with a few random meanderings thrown in. Hills stick to the string like honey.